Chef-driven, wine-list-considered, view-when-the-light-drops. Reservations recommended at all of them; required at three.
Chef Ed Moro's French-influenced dining room on East Genesee Street, sourcing from the surrounding farms whenever the season allows — mussels, house-made pasta, and a raw bar alongside sushi rolls, an unusual pairing that works. Most entrees list two prices: a smaller portion and a full one. Order the small if you want room for dessert.
Specialty-cocktail bar and seafood kitchen on Genesee Street — raw bar, a serious drink menu, and a dining room that reads more city than small upstate town. The reservation to make when you want the night to feel like an occasion rather than a stop on the way somewhere else. Bar seating is first-come.